Poultry Feeds Explained

One of the most confusing things for a first-time flock owner is what to feed their birds! It seems like it would be so easy, just go to the store and buy "chicken feed," but when you get to the feed store, there are dozens of different types! What are all these different types of feed used for? Each of these feeds have a different purpose, and several of them may suit your flock.

Layer Feed

Layer feed is specifically designed for the laying hen, making sure she gets enough protein, calcium, and other minerals to keep her eggshells strong and her body and bones healthy. Layer feed is available in crumbles and pellets. There is a common misconception among holistic and organic bloggers that layer feed has hormones in it to make the hens lay more, but this is untrue. In fact, layer feed will not make hens lay more at all; it only keeps them healthy and keeps eggshells strong! 

Layer feed is best for hens who are more than 16-20 weeks old or laying, whichever comes first. Layer feed will not make them lay, so there's no rush! Do not feed it to young chicks, as their developing kidneys cannot handle the extra vitamins and minerals. Some believe that layer feed may cause kidney disease in roosters, which is a valid concern. However, many people have fed their roosters layer feed with no problems, myself included. Because of this, I believe that a rooster can handle the extra minerals as well as we can handle a multivitamin that gives us a little too much. 

Medicated Chick Starter

Medicated chick starter is for young chickens. This feed has a small amount of the drug amprolium which helps the chicks as they are exposed to coccidia without getting too sick. Coccidia is the single-celled parasite behind coccidiosis, a word which gives chicken keepers quite the headache. When using medicated feed, the chicks are exposed to the coccidia in the dirt, may contract a very mild infection which the amprolium in the feed helps them fight off before it gets too bad. They can still get a severe infection, however, if their waterers, feeders, and environment are not kept reasonably clean. Amprolium has no withdrawal time and there is no evidence that it is harmful to humans, although it cannot be used in an organic setting. 

Medicated chick starter is recommended for a minimum of 8 weeks of age, but you can feed it up to the point that you switch to layer (or other adult feed). It is mainly for chicken chicks. Game bird chicks (like guineas, turkeys, pheasant, quail) will need a higher protein feed than chickens, but you can still find a medicated version of these feeds. It is commonly said that medicated feed is poisonous to ducklings. This is both true and untrue. Previously, medicated feed was made with a different type of drug which waterfowl could easily overdose on. Now, that amprolium is mainly used, medicated feed will not hurt them, but it is not necessary. Waterfowl are extremely resistant to coccidiosis, so they don't need and help preventing it. However, if you are raising them with chicks that eat medicated starter, it will not hurt the ducklings. Just remember to at a niacin supplement for ducks!
*UPDATE* Medicated feed is now controlled by the Veterinary Feed Directive and requires a prescription by a veterinarian in order to obtain. 

Unmedicated Chick Starter

It is as it seems - a basic chick starter with no drugs to control coccidiosis. It is nutritionally complete for the growing chicken! Chicks can develop immunity without the help of drugs, but it is more difficult on the chicken keeper! When feeding unmedicated feed, you must slowly expose them to coccidia by introducing them to dirt when they are around 2 weeks old, and gradually increase their exposure. The organic/med-free keeper must also take extra care to keep waterers, feeders, and bedding very clean, as a dirty environment exposes them to more of the coccidia's oocysts, which causes infection. 

Chicks and ducklings can eat starter up until it's time to switch them to layer feed! If using for ducks, remember to at extra Niacin (B3). Using brewer's yeast (NOT bread yeast!) is a good way to supplement for Niacin.

Game Bird Starter

This feed is for baby "wild" fowl, like turkeys, pheasant, and quail, and is available in medicated and unmedicated versions. Game bird starter is very high in protein. Game birds require more protein than chickens or ducks, so it is important that they have a higher-protein diet. They are generally fed this feed until about 8 weeks of age. 

Game Bird Feed

This is mainly for adult game birds. It provides turkeys, quail, pheasant, and other wild fowl with adequate protein and nutrition in their adult years. It is also often used for chickens and ducks during molting, to help regrow feathers quicker and easier. It can be given to ducks and generally is higher the the niacin they need, but may be too high in protein and cause angel wing in younger ducks. 

Grower/Finisher Feed

Although Purina started marketing this for layers, it was originally only for broilers, like the Cornish Cross. It is designed to lower protein to prepare these broiler chickens for butchering, and is usually given to them at 6 weeks old. 

Purina Flock Raiser

Purina's Flock Raiser is meant for the mixed flock of different ages and species. At 20% protein, is is nutritionally similar to most unmedicated chick starters. A mixed flock is difficult to feed, and a general flock raiser is a good solution, although some of them may need a supplement! For ducklings, you may need to add a bit of Niacin. Leave out free choice oyster shell for the layers (don't worry! The others won't eat it unless they need it). This feed is pretty well-rounded and a good choice for those who raise a mixed flock. 

Nutrena Feather Fixer

Feather Feather Fixer is designed for the molting bird to grow in strong, shiny feathers. It can also be used for birds which are exhibiting signs of protein deficiency, such as feather-eating. According to Nutrena, Feather Fixer has extra protein, vitamins, and greens for ideal feather regrowth. Many people have found that their birds grow more healthy-looking feathers and get through molts quicker when using this feed. 

Waterfowl Feed

Waterfowl feed is ideal for ducks, geese, and swans. With most other feed, they must have niacin added or suffer a painful deficiency or risk getting angel wing, a deformity of the wing caused by a too high-calorie, high-protein feed. When using waterfowl feed for adults or young, you don't have to worry about adding supplements because it is complete for them. If you are raising waterfowl separately from other species, and this type of feed is available to you, it is highly recommended to use feed specifically for waterfowl!

We hope that we helped clear up some confusion! What feed do you use for your birds? Leave a Comment! Remember to check out our Facebook Page and our Instagram for regular updates and cute pictures!

Sources:

"NatureWise Feather Fixer Poultry Feed for Molting." NatureWise Feather Fixer Poultry Feed for Molting. Cargill, Incorportated, 2016. Web. 17 July 2016. <http://www.nutrenaworld.com/products/poultry/naturewise-poultry/feather-fixer/>.

Gerhold, Richard W., Jr. "Overview of Coccidiosis in Poultry." : Coccidiosis: Merck Veterinary Manual. Merck Sharp & Dohme Corp, 2009. Web. 17 July 2016. <http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/poultry/coccidiosis/overview_of_coccidiosis_in_poultry.html>.

"Metzer Farms Duck and Goose Blog: Can Medicated Feed Be Used for Waterfowl?" Metzer Farms Duck and Goose Blog: Can Medicated Feed Be Used for Waterfowl? Metzer Farms, 30 Nov. 2011. Web. 17 July 2016. <http://metzerfarms.blogspot.com/2011/11/can-medicated-feed-be-used-for.html>.

A Few Things That the Chicken Books Didn't Tell Me

When I first got chickens, I read every piece of material I could get my hands on. Books, magazines, pamphlets, anything! While these helped me learn a lot of things I needed to know about caring for chickens, they didn't tell me everything. My chickens have taught me plenty of funny, joyful, and painful lessons, from not-really-significant to pretty darn important.

They're smarter than you think

Sylvie, our very intelligent chicken!

The books told me that chickens weren't entirely stupid, but they didn't tell me they could be as smart as they are. So, our entire bantam flock feels like they need to roost on our porch, rather than the safety of their coop. This means every night we have to carry the five bantams and one overly docile salmon Faverolles in to their coop. One of those bantams, a silver Sebright named Sylvie, really doesn't like to be caught! While the others have given up on evading capture and just let us pick them up and put them to bed, Sylvie has adapted to every single method we have thought of! She quickly caught on to the first method of "catch her while she's asleep". So, since chickens can't see well in the dark, we came up with a new method. "Point the light in the other direction so she can't see us coming to grab her". Eventually, she figured out where the light was coming from, and that we were slowly moving towards her. Off she flew. Then, our new method "catch her in complete and total darkness" worked for a couple of months. But eventually she started listening to our steps and flying off as soon as we got close. Our newest method, "walk past her as if you're not trying to catch her and grab her before she realizes what you're doing" probably has about a week left. Sure, keeping her in the coop and not letting her free-range would solve the problem, but that's no fun!

Don't wear flip-flops in the coop

For some reason, I didn't think of this before getting chickens. No book has ever advised me not to wear flip-flops, but they should! If you have a freckle, or your toenails pained, a scratch or even a spec of dirt, the chickens will feel the need to peck it. A lot. I have one teenie, tiny freckle on my left foot, and every time they saw me in flip-flops, they tried to peck it off, and do the same to my painted toenails. For a quick, cool slip-on shoe, I recommend nurses shoes!

You will spend way more time watching your chickens than you thought

For some reason, chickens are fun to watch. Many owners refer to this as "chicken TV." Watching "chicken TV" is like listening to waterfalls or watching a nature documentary, it is calm and relaxing. In a world where we are constantly stimulated by our devices, chickens provide an outlet to observe something with no story and no problem solving. It's a type of entertainment that allows us to take a moment to just watch and enjoy animals doing what animals do - and that is a lot more satisfying than it sounds! Sometimes I spend an hour just watching them out my window as they peck around, and my rooster periodically chases his son away from the hens. After watching them, I feel very relaxed and entertained, even without my smartphone in my hand. 

The first chicken death is really hard... but it gets easier

 One of the most unfortunate things about keeping livestock, especially chickens, is that they are prey animals, and they die often. While a chicken can live for 10 years or more, it's more common for them to first be taken out by a predator, illness, or simply failure to thrive. My first chicken death was also my favorite chicken, named Blossom. We had let the chickens out to free range, but had to leave for the hospital due to a family emergency. When we returned, blossom was in the driveway with a note from our neighbor that she had been hit by a car, and he didn't want us to see her lying there in the road (thanks for very kind neighbors). That was very hard, but it prepared me for the following year. That summer we had a dog attack and an outbreak of coccidiosis that took out several of my spring-hatched birds both times. Each time, it got a little easier to deal with. It's still a little upsetting when one dies, but now that I have twenty-something birds and I have experienced a few chicken deaths, it doesn't make me want to give up. Even if an illness wiped out half of my flock, I could now learn to cut my losses and start over. I believe this has helped me a lot in life.

You probably won't get just a few chickens

Commonly referred to as "chicken math," this is a more serious problem than you would think. After our first six hens, we got a rooster. We figured we could hatch some new hens, since our coop had enough room to nearly double the flock size. Now we have two coops and a duck pen, and we are adding a bigger coop and a fence for waterfowl. We are adding several chicken breeds, one or two more ducks, and most likely a goose or two. This all started from getting six pullets from Tractor Supply. This is something you'll have to be careful about if you live in the city, where they usually have limits as to how many hens you can have. If you don't live somewhere with ordinances, plan for expansions. Chicken math will get you!

Nothing tastes better than the food your chickens provide you

So, maybe a home-grown chicken egg tastes just like a storebought egg in a blind test. Maybe it does cost twice as much to raise chickens than just buy eggs. But producing your own food, collecting those eggs that are waiting on you every morning, eating an egg for breakfast that is just hours old, it's rewarding! When you were a kid, and you grew a vegetable plant for school, nothing was better than when you finally got to eat it, no matter how gross is actually was. Something that is produced in your own backyard just tastes better to you. It gives you a sense of accomplishment! This is especially true in kids; I've had kids beg to collect the eggs for me when they come over!

I'm sure I will learn many more lessons throughout a lifetime of chicken keeping, as I have many more years to go. What have your chickens taught you? Leave a comment! Don't forget to check out our Facebook page and our Instagram for regular updates!

Springtime is Happy Time

We are so happy it's finally spring! The hens are finally all laying, the incubator is fired up, the ducks are splashing! The chickens are happy that their coop finally gets opened for free-ranging, all that green grass and those bugs aren't going to eat themselves! (Note to self, never use that phrase again.)

Enjoying some free ranging!

The spring is when the financial pressure of owning farm animals starts to be alleviated, a little. A combination of finally having some eggs to sell to pay for feed, and having to buy less feed because the chickens are eating mainly bugs and plants. You might even profit enough to buy yourself a milkshake! Probably a small milkshake, but hey! It's a profit! This is positive thinking. Spring gives us positive thinking, and hope of a good year.

Sylvie enjoying the warm weather

One of our hens' first egg of the year!

None of my hens have gone broody yet. I have a game hen that probably will, a young Silkie, and I'm crossing my fingers on the red sexlink that raised chicks for us last year. I can't wait until someone sits! I love watching a mother hen lead her babies around to find food in the lush spring grass, or whoop up on a cat that chases them!

Boots and Rumpy, getting ready to lay in our cabinets-turned-nesting-box-holder. We often use cardboard boxes as nesting boxes to reduce garbage!

Ducks need to have at least enough water to cover their nostrils
when they drink .

The ducks are also enjoying the spring. Although they are not as bothered by winter's bitter weather as chickens, they finally can get into some nice non-frozen water and swim! Gone are the days of buckets that they can barely stick their head in, and the days of swimming have finally come! The ducks seem so disappointed when they are let out and hop into their spring-fed pool, only to find 5 inches of solid ice in place of their water. Even when the spring is dry, it is finally warm enough to hook up the water hose and have more than 9 gallons of water in their pool at a time! I've never seen such happy ducks as the first warm day we had!

Splash!

Chuck, checking out the Camera!

I think the happiest one about the nice weather is Nina, the farm Chihuahua. Nina follows me out when I take care of the chickens. I go out multiple times a day, meaning Nina goes out at well! In the winter, she gets bundled up in sweaters and coats because Chihuahuas get cold very easily, but in the spring, she doesn't have to get cold at all! Nina loves being able to lie out in the sun again, not on slippery ice and snow over her head!

Nina - the happiest member of the family

At the end of the day, the chickens roost as happy birds, the ducks waddle their way back to their pen to be kept safe for the night, and we all sit back and listen to the spring peepers singing in the nearby streams. Ah, spring, we love you so!

Grabbing the last few bites before heading up to the roost for the night.

Why aren't my hens laying?!

This is a common question seen on forums and Facebook groups. Sometimes, when people's birdies aren't producing as much as expected, owners get baffled. There are a few things to consider when figuring out why your chickens aren't laying, such as age, time of year, stress level, behavior, and symptoms of illness.

How old is she?

We all get a little impatient while waiting for our pullets to start laying eggs. They can start as early as 16 weeks if she is an egg production breed, and 32 weeks or later for meat and ornamental breeds! Most of the time, layers and dual-purpose breeds will start laying between 20-28 weeks old, and it may depend on the time of year they reach laying age. If they reach 20 weeks in the dead of winter, they may hold off a few weeks before they start laying!

Old hens will eventually stop laying. The age at which this happens can vary greatly. Laying varieties such as the Leghorn or red sexlink may quit laying as early as 3 years of age, while dual-purpose and ornamental fowl may be six or seven years old before they completely stop laying. This is because, although laying breeds lay more in there first year or two, they "burn out" quickly. At this point, it is up to the owner to decide whether to keep the chicken as a pet themselves, re-home them as pets, or cull the old hens. Age, either too young or too old, is a likely culprit as to why your hens aren't laying. 

What time of year is it?

Most hens will lay less or stop laying altogether in the winter, unless they are specifically bred not to. There are two reasons for this. If a chicken were to be living in the wild, they would need to conserve as much energy as possible to deal with the cold and little food of winter. Second, while we have bred chickens to lay eggs for us, the real purpose of those eggs is reproduction. How likely is it for a hen to successfully hatch and raise chicks when it's -5 degrees out and there's no food because everything is dead? Not very. So, when the days start getting shorter, the hen's body reacts to the lessening ultraviolet rays by releasing hormones that stop her laying. In order to prevent this, you can add supplemental UV lighting in the fall and provide it through winter. Personally, I prefer to give my hens a break in the winter. They deserve it! 

Choco the Sebright, clearly bewildered by the snow, did not lay a single egg until March! This is very typical, especially in  ornamental breeds.

Is she molting?

Chickens generally molt once a year, and that is usually in the fall, although I have had them do it in the winter. When a chicken molts, she will lose a lot of her feathers and grow new ones. They look terrible, but I assure you, it's natural! Growing new feathers takes a lot of protein, and so does laying eggs. In order to put energy into the task at hand, a hen will stop laying until her feathers have grown back in. In fact, if a hen continues laying while she is molting, that is cause for concern, because producing both eggs and feathers at the same time is extremely hard on the hen's body. To help your chickens with a molt, you can temporarily switch to a high protein feed, such as game bird feed, or offer high-protein treats like cat food or mealworms daily. Be careful with cat food, as too much can make your chickens sick!

Has there been stress on the flock?

There have been several times now that my girls have stopped laying for a couple of days due to stress. Have you moved coops? Added new birds? Was there recently a predator attack? Is there a sudden, drastic change in weather, such as a bad winter storm or a heat wave? Are there signs of illness? All of these things can cause stress on your birds and temporarily halt their laying. Generally, they will continue laying when the stress subsides. 

Is she acting broody?

Goose the chicken, growling at me as her first chick was hatching!

Is she sitting in the next, puffed up, maybe getting off every other day for a few minutes, and growling and biting at you? Congratulations! You have a broody hen! "Broody" describes a hen that is trying to hatch eggs. She will stop laying, and sit on the nest. It does not matter if the eggs are hers, or if they are fertile, or if they are even eggs at all! I truly broody hen will try to hatch golf balls, round stones, or anything vaguely egg-shaped. Your options are either breaking her from broodiness, letting her hatch eggs, or letting her adopt chicks. Waiting it out isn't a viable option, because most hens will keep sitting until they have chicks. Broodiness is very hard on the hen, and she's not meant to stay on the nest for more than three weeks, so she must be either allowed to hatch, given chicks, or broken from broodiness! Note that some hens will not adopt chicks, always supervise when first introducing them! 

Are there any symptoms of illness? 

Chickens will often stop laying when they're ill. It takes a lot of energy for the immune system to fight off infection! Is your hen sneezing, wheezing, lethargic, or weak? Does she have swollen eyes, or are her wings droopy? Is there discharge coming from her eyes, nose, or mouth? Is she puffed up, but not sitting on a nest? Are the other chickens picking on her, yet she barely reacts? Is she eating and drinking okay? Does she have diarrhea or bloody poop? Looking for additional symptoms can help you determine whether she is not laying for one of the above reasons, or if she is actually sick.

Egg binding 

A sudden stop in laying could be a symptom of egg binding. An eggbound hen has an egg lodged in her oviduct that she is unable to pass. Any bird can become eggbound, but high-production birds, such as Leghorns and red sexlinks, are more susceptible to the condition. 

Symptoms of egg binding include:

Not eating or drinking

Straining, as if trying to lay an egg

"Waddling" or penguin-walking

Leaving an entering the nest box multiple times

Acting "droopy" and slow

A hardened abdomen

A pale face and comb

Diarrhea OR constipation, and a full crop

If your hen is exhibiting these symptoms, please refer to this BYC article about egg binding. Your hen's life could be in danger! An eggbound hen needs immediate treatment!

Did this shed some light on your egg-laying predicament? I hope so! If you still have questions, feel free to leave a comment! Also be sure to like our Facebook page and follow our Instagram where we post regular pictures of our farm! Thanks for reading!

The Spring Chick's First Snow

One of my favorite things is seeing the first-year chickens experience snow for the first time. Some stand there and stare at the sky, some peck at it, some go in the coop and won't come out, some go everywhere but the coop trying to escape!

Here they are hiding under some steps. Marquis, the Salmon Faverolle, is much more equipped to handle cold weather than the bantams. However, he stays with them because he is too timid and docile to be with the big chickens! He got use to the snow pretty quickly compared to the others!








Choco, a Golden sebright, could not understand the snow. She stood in that spot, with that expression, for about 10 minutes while I tried to get her in her coop. She was more confused than any of the other chickens - and it was hilarious!

After she was done staring at the sky, Choco tried to escape by getting on the roof. She was too confused by the snow around her to fly back off by herself, so I had to get a 4 foot stick and poke her until she got off the roof! I knew she could fly well, but not that well! 

All it took to get Sylvie and Mr. Fabulous use to the snow was a few graham crackers! They followed us straight into the coop! Since Silkies do not have any  hard feathers to keep heat in and water out, it is important that that stay dry in the winter. Sebrights are better, but they have very little underfluff to hold warm air against their bodies. It's best that the bantams don't spend to spend too much time in the snow!

Now the ducks loved the snow. I let them out and they immediately started playing in it! They loved sifting through the snow for the little pieces of food left behind by the chickens! Ducks are a lot more cold-hardy than chickens, but they aren't foolproof. I looked outside to see one of my mallard/pekin hens shivering. When I picked her up, she was soaked! She hadn't spread her oils well enough to fully waterproof her feathers! Always check your ducks' feathers in the winter!

Of course, Nina the farm Chihuahua. This isn't her first year of snow, but it may as well be, because she acts just as surprised and disgusted every year! Even though she has a sweater and a coat on, it's just too cold out for her!

I hope you guys enjoyed my flock and the snow! Stay warm, drink some hot cocoa, and make some cookies with your eggs (if you're even getting them right now!). 

Best Chicken Breeds for Preppers

Doomsday prepping has become quite a popular hobby. It's no wonder, with the CDC releasing a zombie preparedness guide, and many possible tragedies the threaten life as we know it. Whether you're prepping for government collapse, the super volcano eruption, or a massive epidemic, chickens will be a valuable source of food to make you self sufficient. They are possibly the easiest livestock to care for and will provide both eggs and meat! However, not all chickens are the same, and some breeds would do better in a survival situation than others. I've come up with a list of my top picks. The list is in no particular order, and which ones are best depends on your climate and situation. The main factors I considered for this list are Use/Production, weather hardiness, free-ranging ability, raising young, and the ability to defend themselves. Some birds will be better at certain things than others, so I suggest a varied flock that covers all bases.

1. Rhode Island Red.

These guys are the jack of all trades. Originating from New England, they are very cold hardy, but can handle heat as well. They are great layers of large brown eggs, and very meaty birds for the table. Rhode Island Reds are decent free-rangers but will still need some supplemental feed, even in the summer and fall months. Roosters are extremely strong and protective of the flock, but this also means that they tend to be aggressive. Make sure children know to avoid the rooster and what to do if it becomes aggressive toward them. Hens are mildly broody, meaning they will hatch and raise chicks occasionally. 

Heritage birds (from a breeder) are desired over hatchery stock for this breed. Hatchery stock Rhode Island Reds (also called "production reds") have been bred for excellent egg-laying, sacrificing broodiness and size, so they are less desirable for dual-purpose uses. However, hatchery stock will still be good enough for the average prepper. Mine come from hatchery chicks! This would be an excellent breed to make up the bulk of your flock. 

2. American Game

American Games are the fighting fowl of the US. These beautiful birds are probably the toughest common chicken you can get! They are extremely flighty, and can evade most predators with relative ease. Their wings and tails are very long in comparison to their body size, making them perfectly equipped for flight! What they can't fly away from, they will fight. Because females often grow spurs as the males do, they are a force to be reckoned with to predators. Females are also excellent mothers, going broody and raising chicks several times during the hatching season. They protect these chicks with ferocity. 

In addition to being very good at protecting themselves and their young, this breed is very hardy and self-reliant. They can handle both heat and cold very well, can eat almost exclusively through free-ranging. Owners of this breed find that they often prefer to roost in trees rather than in coops, no matter the weather! They are practically wild birds, and can adapt to most any climate. They can have a pea comb or a single comb. Pea is preferred in cold climates, while single may be better in hot climates. 

The hardiness of this breed comes at a cost. They are not bred for production, so hens lay less than 100 eggs a year. Though they are muscular, they weigh less than five pounds, not making them much of a meat bird. In addition to that, these birds are born and bred for fighting and are very aggressive. Males can not be kept in confined environments with other males. Because of this, games should not make up a big part of your flock. Due to their flightiness and aggression, games are not ideal for beginners. 

3. Plymouth Rock

Stocky and cold-hardy, Plymouth Rocks are my personal favorite dual-purpose bird. They lay almost as well as the Rhode Island Red, but lay slightly smaller eggs and may lay a little less per year, especially comparing hatchery stock. They make up for it in their meat, however. Plymouth rocks are heavy, meaty birds. Both male and female can dress out at a decent size, and make for a tasty roast! Males are fairly protective, and not very aggressive. Females are moderately broody, and their size means that they can hatch a lot of eggs at a time.

While they will free range, their size requires that they have a lot of feed to supplement what they find.  This also means that they are poor flyers. 

Plymouth Rocks come in a lot of difference colors. Especially for free ranging flocks, barred or partridge colored varieties are best. White is the most easily spotted by predators, but the white pin feathers look better for butchering than that of darker birds. 

4. Orpington

Orpingtons, the pillow-pet of chickens. You can thank England for this fluffy breed, where they were developed into the excellent dual-purpose bird that they are today. They do fairly well in free-ranging, but will still require some feed, all seasons. Some people prefer Orpingtons over any other breed as a mother to chicks. They are very large, so a lot of eggs can fit under a hen. This breed also has an extremely calm, friendly temperament, making them a common pick for families with children. Roosters are generally not extremely protective, however. This breed is particularly cold hardy.

These birds have been bred for both eggs and meat, and lay medium to large eggs. Because they are a heavy breed, so each bird will have a hearty amount of meat for butchering. The most common color is buff, but they come in many more solid colors as well as patterns!

5. Leghorn

Sometimes pronounced "leg-horn", sometimes pronounced "leggern," Leghorns lay most of the eggs you see in the grocery store. This is because they are able to produce very large eggs, while their small bodies require significantly less food. In addition to laying lots of eggs on little food, they are great at free-ranging and excellent flyers! The brown variety of leghorn will be less susceptible to predators than the more common white. Males are known to be protective and are prone to aggression. They are generally not a mothering breed, however. They go broody very rarely. 

Leghorns will do very well in hot environments, but may do poorly in colder climates. Their large, floppy combs are prone to frostbite in the extreme cold. 

6. Easter Egger

The Easter Egger (often abbreviated 'EE') is not a true breed, but rather a mix of a blue laying breed, usually an Ameraucana or Araucana, with a brown or white layer. They generally lay blue or green eggs, but can lay pink, brown or cream as well. Hatcheries often label Easter Eggers as "Americana" to fool people in to thinking they are getting a great deal on the rare and expensive "Ameraucana" when they are, in fact, getting a mixed-breed bird. 

Nonetheless, Easter Eggers are inexpensive and extremely hardy birds. They are not very big chickens, but very resilient. They can handle heat or cold, but can deal with extremely cold temperatures better than most. An excellent choice for a northern prepper, EEs are great free-rangers and generally come in camouflaging patterns. They are mildly broody and make good mothers. They are a good layer of medium to large eggs that can be any color, but are most often blue or green. 

Easter Eggers are generally known to be quite friendly birds, but it can depend on the breeds a specific hatchery or breeder used in their birds' development. 

Breeds to avoid

There are plenty of birds not mention in my list that will do just as well as the above birds in a doomsday situation. However, there are a few you should probably avoid. 

Sebright

This breed is often in bantam bins at feed stores. They are striking in appearance which makes them tempting, but your main flock is best without them. They don't lay much, sometimes only laying a total of 4-6 weeks out of the whole year. They don't generally go broody, and they aren't particularly weather-hardy. Males have "hen feathering" due to a mutation that mutes the testosterone receptors in their skin that cause most roosters to have long, pointed, shiny hackle and saddle feathers. This mutation has led to reduced fertility among male Sebrights. They can, however, fly better than most chickens and mine do very well in a free ranging environment (guilty as charged, I have two.)

Silkie

Another I am guilty of owning. Silkies are an Asian breed of chicken that lack 'hooks' on their feathers. This causes the feathers to appear fluffy, as if the chicken has fur. Unfortunately, this mutation causes a lot of problems for the Silkie. They are unable to fly because their wings and tail cannot catch wind. They also cannot handle cool or windy weather very well. Normal chickens stay warm by trapping air between their feathers and their skin. That air is warmed by their body heat, and insulated by their feathers. Silkies' feathers don't do this very well. They also are not water resistant like a normal chicken's feathers, so they get soaked to the skin any time they get wet. 

Silkies do have a very calm demeanor, do well in confinement, and are good at raising young. They

may be a good option if you needed to keep a chicken indoors. 

Anything "frizzled"

It may be tempting to buy these adorable chickens that look like their feathers are permanently ruffled. However, they run into the same problems as Silkies. Those up-turned feathers are unable to insulate body temperature, making both excessively hot and cold weather difficult for them to handle. 

Polish

I personally do love the appearance of these goofy looking birds, but they aren't the best for a prepper. They lay modestly, but generally stop completely in the winter. They rarely, if ever, go broody. Polish could be good free-rangers, if it weren't for their giant crests making them predator bait. The crest blocks out most of their sight, making them unable to see any aerial predators. They also run into problems with other chickens who have not been raised with crested birds. They will peck at the crest, thinking they're getting some funny thing off of their flockmate's head, but they're actually scalping her. 

Your own flock

The best flock for a prepper is a varied one. As generations go on, the flock will combine their genes to produce well-rounded and diverse offspring, allowing you to continue your food source for a very long time. The chickens I specified are my personal top picks, but what you like or need may depend on your unique situation. Always do research on a breed before buying to see if it will fit in to your life! 

All images used in this article are either Public Domain, or owned by myself.